I left Sydney on Tuesday 22nd August for a 4 day stay in Singapore. From there I will go to Sri Lanka for 17 days whence I go to London and stay with my old mate Jezza (That’s Australian for Jeremy).
If we can renovate his glasshouse in time (and not throw any stones) we hope to spend “10 days in Provence” (Not quite a catchy as “A year in Provence” is it)
I have created this page just in case something worth relating happens.
How much stress does travel create – Discuss.
I started writing this while waiting patiently for my flight to Singapore. I just consumed a restorative coffee and thought it an ideal time to tell you of the first two notable events that happened on Tuesday morning. I doubt if there will be any more in the next 7 weeks.
The first was the kind of self-induced stress that I am good at creating. Before I left for the shuttle to the airport I went on a short walk, only 4 km, and a shower. I had woken at 4am so as to catch the 5:45am bus.
I was repacking my suitcase and I was checking off in my mind that I had everything. I realised that I did not have my alarm clock (it looks a lot like a Sony smartphone). In the space of 5 seconds I had mentally written out the claim form for travel insurance and calculated how long I could spend looking for the phone before I had to leave to catch the shuttle. After 10 seconds, I had emptied the suitcase to see if it was already packed. Luckily at the 15 second mark I moved the towel on the bed and found the phone. My heart rate soon returned to normal.
I was nice and early at the check-in desk. I was just 3 away from being served and the check-in computers froze – for 15 minutes. The queue was snaking towards the entry door. I thought about saying “Do you want me to have a look – trust me I am in IT” but I was now officially on holiday so did not.
The next event was at the security check. You probably realise I do not travel simply, there is not always room for clothes in my suitcase after I have packed all the necessary electronic items. This is certainly so with my carry bag. One has to separately put the laptop though the security scanner which I did. My carry-on suitcase was in a second plastic tray. I asked about my Soundgate around my neck (it is a hearing aid Bluetooth controller) and I was told it would be fine. So, wearing it, I went through the body scanner. The scanner showed up my passport pouch around my neck. It shows dark squares on the x-ray. I put that in tray number 3 and tried again. Next the scanner showed up my Soundgate as a dark image, the security guard said it had to go into tray number 4. This I did together with my wallet just in case.
Lastly, I went through the scanner again and it went bananas. It showed up squares all over the place. The lady guard said that the machine had broken. Maybe it just got tired of seeing me, I know I was not enamoured of it. A man was summoned and patted me all over. My 4 trays were forlornly sitting on their own at the end of the x-ray belt.
I am now in hot Singapore and will talk to you soon.
Well, my 4 days in Singapore have just flown by. I did some research on buying a separate flash light for my camera. The Nikon brands were way out of my price range so I settled on a 3rd party model. I had chosen a short list of 4 from which I would choose one. The one I really wanted was the most expensive on the list. Surprise, Surprise!
I started off at a mall on Orchard road where RedDotPhoto had a couple of the models including the one I most wanted. The assistant brought out the two boxes and I noticed that all my Christmases had suddenly come at once. I asked the best price for cash for my favourite and I was quoted the price on their website. I pointed out that the price on the box was $100 cheaper. They honored the box price. I may even get a 10% discount at the airport with a GST refund. This will bring it below the cheapest on my shortlist. I’ll keep you posted.Why me?You will soon see why I ask that question. After a longish wait in the airport, the full resources of the Emirates airline company managed to transport me from Singapore to Colombo. All the parts of the airplane (the important bits, anyway) worked in smooth unison.
I wish I could be as enthusiastic about the taxi ride from the airport to the hotel at 3am. The system showed early promise, I paid a fixed fee for the distance of 28kms, it was Aus $25.
I was escorted to a waiting taxi and off we went. As it was not a busy time we went the pretty way, that was fine until we came to the outskirts of Colombo. Although I should first describe the driving characteristics of the cab-man. The lights were on full beam most of the way, they were lowered when flashing another motorist then back on full beam. We drove normally up behind other traffic until we got next to them, whether or not they showed signs of straying, the horn was tootled. We slowed down so that we were not going fast enough to overtake. I wondered if the ghost of Mrs. Bucket was in the car saying “Mind that lorry, Richard”
When we approached Colombo, we took an opposite turn to the Fort. I said I thought it was near the Fort but he said not, it was near Mumble. (Not a place more a way of speaking).
I knew we were off tack when we went on the approach road to the freeway. I asked if this was right, he stopped and revered back off the ramp. I offered to get my phone from the back which had maps on it. This he ignored. He stopped and tried to phone the hotel but alas the number on the booking form was wrong. Again, I offered my maps. I said the hotel was on the coast, sea, water, ocean. I thought one of the words might get through. I said it was called “Ocean Edge” – the title gives it away.
Next, I said why don’t we ask someone. I helpfully suggested a couple of people. Then I said how about the tuk-tuk drivers. We pulled up. The conversation started in English and then changed to a local dialect which I suspect made it fool-proof to talk about the passenger from Hell (Coffs Harbour – I will have you know), many phrases were repeated and many arms were waved. Off we went with some renewed purpose I thought. What did I know!
After another 10 minutes, and a few turns thither and yon, I suggested another tuk-tuk driver who pointed the way we were headed. At last I spotted the neon sign. It was now 4am and a journey of over an hour that should have taken less than 30 minutes. Oh! Well! It was cheap!
Later at 7:30am the reception called to see if I was Barry Hunt. I said I was. How kind to check although I would rather have had a couple more hours sleep instead. The rest of the day was at leisure.
Some notes on Sri Lankan Tuk-Tuks and unofficial guides.
I am used to engaging with Indian Tuk-Tuk drivers and so, one might say, I have a head start with their Sri Lanka cousins.
The guidebook says that you should always hail a tuk-tuk with a meter and refuse to get in if he will not use it. This is sound advice and totally useless. The first driver I hailed I greeted with a certain bon-ami and showed him where I wanted to go on the map on my phone. He understood after a while. Only then I said would he use the meter. He said it was broken (Excuse #4).
I bade him farewell. The next 6 drivers came up with the same excuse or numbers 1,3 and 6 as to why they would not use the meter. These 6 drivers where not greeted with any bon-ami just a simple question – Use Meter?
Then I just hailed any driver and asked the cost to 9th Street off Galle road. After 3 drivers, I realised that the proper cost was 300 rupees to a foreigner. (250 by meter). Most started at 600, I responded with 300 my last price. Not bad, 10 drivers to get the right price.
I took another ride and hailed a metered tuk-tuk and asked how much. He pointed to the meter and said whatever is on it. We had gone about a km before I realised he had not turned it on. Hoist with my own petard. It was a similar distance so I gave him 300 rupees and he said OK.Now to the unofficial guide, here is how it works. (On me it worked only the first time as I was wise after that)
1. A respectably dressed man walks beside you. He is in middle management (in my hotel) or a teacher – my first encounter).
2. Always, the first question is “Where are you from”
3. I cheat and say “Sydney, Australia”, I don’t think they could cope with “15, Jensen Close, Coffs Harbour 2450 Australia.
4. They will always have a relative in Australia.
5. Have I heard about the festival at a local place of worship? I never have mainly because it does not exist.
6. As it starts soon we should get a tuk-tuk and go there.
7. I respond I am going to the tea board or supermarket etc.
8. They always know a superior one.
9. They stop a tuk-tuk to take us to the temple.
10. We stop at a better tea shop.
11. At this point I got bored and said I was walking off.
12. How about 600 rupees for the tuk-tuk (About 6 times the price for the ride)
13. I said not my problem as I did not stop it, mate.
14. We parted company. Ha!
15. Score Barry 1 middle management or teacher 0
There have been subsequent attempts but I just responded with
“I’ll see the festival ……..” Insert as appropriate tomorrow/sometime/never/next trip
The English language is a wonderful thing.
Just now Judy sent me an email asking me if we had any small bulbs for a particular lamp we have at home. I immediately jumped on Skype and luckily, she was listening out. She said it was a lamp that she used to see a mouse.
Judy plays online bridge on her laptop and I thought she did not use a mouse but I explained where I thought the bulbs were anyway. She found them and I asked her if she had started to use a mouse on her laptop. Then the penny dropped, the mouse was one with a tail that has appeared and Judy was using a light to keep it away while she obtained a trap.
I never thought it would happen to me!
Some background for my overseas readers.
There is somewhat of a furore in Australia at present as quite a few members of parliament have suddenly discovered that they have dual nationality. Under Section 44 of our constitution holding allegiance to another country bars a person from sitting (or standing) in parliament. It is a basic rule and I am amazed that quite a few people forgot or did not investigate that they had dual nationality. If you were born overseas or had an overseas parent then before you endured the fun of an election you might query.
When I went to collect two train tickets for onward journeys this holiday I fronted up with my Aussie passport and should have fronted with the UK version. In my defence, I had forgotten that as I booked my tickets through a UK firm I used a UK passport. I have to return to window 17 before my trip to Kandy this am to collect the tickets.
Dual nationality catches up with even frail Old Aged Pensioners.
Toothsome Temple
I am now in Kandy for a few days.
Yesterday I planned to go to the Sacred Tooth Temple (or as Kate put it the “Tooth Fairies Palace”) it houses a tooth from Buddha. Kate is a good friend, she always listens to me, something to do with being an Audiologist I think. I believe she was close to the mark because I suspect that the tooth could have been one that was exchanged for a 10-rupee coin after it came out when he was young.
Anyway, I digress, I strolled into the exit (and was turned away), I then strolled into the entrance and was turned away. I only had short trousers on. I gave up and had lunch.
Today, I returned and there were hundreds of people queuing up. It was a special religious holiday! Locals get in to the temple free, foreigners have to pay 1,500 rupees (Aus $12.67). This I did, it did not confer any benefits, I queued with all the free locals. The aim was to get into the temple and see the tooth. More than once I contemplated giving up but stuck it out for an hour. Finally, I was only about 150 from the front when they closed the window showing the tooth (tooth-ache?). Also, they disbanded our queue as it turns out that 151 of us (150 ahead plus me) were queued in the exit passage. I thought this was not the way to treat a frail Australian Old Aged Pensioner. I bailed up a “Special Task Force” member (Security guard). I told him of my nationality and age status plus the fact I had paid $12.67 to get in. He took my argument on board and together the Aussie and the Special Forces combined to get me 23 from the front of the real queue. The window magically opened and I filed past.
Now I realise that the tooth is safely stored in a gold casket, inside a gold gasket casket (ED. Thank you Jeremy for spotting the mistake. No prizes sadly. At least Jeremy and you read to the bottom, thank you), inside a gold casket etc. Luckily, I did not blink at the wrong time and had a full 1.75 second view.
The rest of the temple complex was great. Interesting museums and a new shrine that was beautiful. I have uploaded some photos.
Wot no Coffee
Before I left Kandy (I am now in Ella), I decided to visit the Ceylon Tea museum. It is situated about 6kms south of the town. I negotiated a round-trip deal plus an hour wait with a Tuk-Tuk driver for 750 rupee ($6.33). The museum had been a working Tea factory until 1984 then in 1991 it was turned into a museum. All the old equipment had been restored and was on display. I had a 40-minute tour with my own guide from the museum. You will see some photos of it on the gallery page.
My guide was very knowledgeable and informative. As we went around she asked me which tea I preferred. I cannot tell a lie, I said I did not drink tea. I spared her the story of how my dad used to brew tea on the stove for an hour or so. Not unsurprisingly it did not taste like any tea I have had since.
At the end of the tour I was asked which tea I would like to taste so I asked if they had coffee. Suddenly none of the staff understood English. I opted for Dimbula a saucy drop with a good nose.
On the way, back into Kandy my driver kindly stopped to let me take photos.
Goats like Tea.
They appear to enjoy eating the leaves rather than waiting for it to be processed and brewed, although I do not suppose anyone has offered them tea to drink.
They are somewhat of connoisseurs as they only ate the young top shoots referred to here as Silver tips or White tea. Again, see the photo gallery for proof of my assertion. Further on from the Goats we came upon a tuk-tuk driver who had broken down. I said to my driver that we should stop to help.
The accelerator cable had broken and we tied the cable on the engine and into the cab. The idea was to steer with one hand and accelerate by tugging the cable. That was the theory anyway.
In my accommodation In Kandy, I had a pink fairy net. It was just like the one that Sophie, my grand-daughter has in her room. I know because Sophie kindly let me sleep in her room when I visited. You will be pleased to know that the net worked because I had an undisturbed night and was not woken once by a fairy. There is, of course, a photo of me in my fairy net in the Gallery.
I reserved the Kandy Holiday Residence from Australia and knew that I was to pay the owner but what I did not know was that had no electronic method of payment. The owner had a legal practice as a sideline. He worked in the High court and Courts of Appeal but no electronic payment.
I did not find this out until the night before I left. As I did not have enough cash we agreed that he would hire a tuk-tuk to do some shopping for him and take me to a cash machine. It all worked out right. I have found that it is usually all right in the end, if it not all right then it is not the end.
The clergy get special treatment.
The first two seats in the 2nd class reserved section of the train are labeled “Reserved for Clergy” and they have their own waiting room on Kandy station. The train from Kandy to Ella was, apparently a cut above the rest in Sri Lanka as it was built in China. I have traveled in some very high quality high speed (200km plus) trains in China. The Kandy to Ella was not one of them. When the Chinese supplied the train I think they fitted the wrong carriage couplings. Every time the train started out of a station all the carriages clanked and jolted together. I think the couplings were meant for a goods train. The ride was over 7 hours and the train managed to find stations that were not on the map. I took my life in my hand and decided to go to the loo. There was a hole in the floor with a metal plate around it and the ground whizzing past below. Primitive with a capital P
Never a train when you want one.
When I arrived in Ella after my 7-hour train ride I decided to do my daily walk to the Nine Arches bridge just outside Ella. I arrived at the viewing platform just before 5:30pm. The bridge is a railway bridge that spans a gorge. A train was due at 5:30pm so I decided to wait and hopefully take some photos. Well, I waited until 6:20 and the train was still 20 minutes away and it was nearly dark. Nothing for it to walk back. I will put up some photos of a railway bridge sand train.
Further to Sri Lankan scams
I met Robert and Laura from who were from Holland at the Nine Arch bridge viewing platform and they related how they intervened in an argument with a driver and a tourist. The driver had worked the “Temple festival scam” and was demanding money. He found out how far the driver had gone, told the tourist what to pay and told the driver to lump it. The tourist was very thankful. I also read a blog online describing how a girl was taken in by two men and asked for money. In the end, she had to throw money at them, scream and run away. She felt really threatened. It is a pity a few create a bad impression and tarnish the reputation of many.
Ella to Tissa (Tissamaharama)
I am not a fan of Bus transport. There were essentially three choices to get from Ella to Tissa (90kms) a bus, tuk-tuk or a taxi. I was not a fan of choosing the bus for a number of reasons:
- No one knows for certain when a bus will come.
- No one knows for certain is a bus exists (No 32 for example). The tourist police say it does not but Roharn of the OnRock hotel says it does.
- A bus is never full – hanging out the door for 2 hours is fine.
- Your luggage might not fit in the luggage compartment.
- ….. Need I go on?
A tuk-tuk is fine for short rides but over 2 hours is not much fun. Yesterday I got the best price for a taxi at 4,500 rupee (Aus$ 38).
Today I arrived at the bus stop to hope that 1 to 4 above were untrue. I had waited 5 minutes when 2 taxi drivers offered me a taxi. I said 4,000 rupee (Yesterday 3,500 was laughed at). They both phoned their people and one came back and said yes, he would take me. So I got a more or less stress free ride for Aus$32. We had just left town when the driver stopped at 3 shrines side by side. He prayed at each. When he got back in he said one was Buddhism, one was Hinduism and he did not explain the third. I thought a backup religion maybe. He was a reasonable driver by Sri Lankan standards. There was only one stressful moment when he overtook a slow tuk-tuk over a double white line, on a corner, while dialing on his phone.
The other unusual thing he did was to say a short prayer whenever we passed a shrine on the road. Naturally he put his hands together. I was really hoping there were no shrines on a bend with a steep drop off – on my side. Luckily there were not.
The main reason one comes to Tissa is to do a Safari in the Yala National Park. I had just got my luggage from the taxi when the first guide came and offered me a safari. I have had one booked with Chamara of Ceylon Safaris for a while now. His home/office was a short walk from the hotel so I went off to see if he was in. Every third house had a safari jeep with high seats. When I got to his home I met his Dad and Mum. Chamara had just got married so I looked at the wedding photos, as you do and had a cup of tea. I have drunk more tea in the last week than I have in the last 10 years.
I will report back on how many animals come out to play, if any.
The hardware alcove and the insulating tape.
The story starts when the lead on my camera GPS attachment became frayed. I did not bring any insulating tape away with me. I did, however, bring a multi-meter which I used at my hotel in Colombo to test the fuse on the induction cook-top. The fuse way OK, by the way, the cook-top was faulty and they replaced it. The electrician was most interested in my multi-meter, it is compact and has some good testing ranges. But I digress, I found a place selling hardware in Ella. It was not shop size but alcove size. I suspect everything was there but you just had to find it. They were big on plumbing. I poked around but did not see any insulating tape. The lady behind the counter did not speak English so I mined insulating tape. This yielded solder on a reel. So, I managed the reel but now for the tape. I had an inspiration, on my rummage I spotted some plumbers tape that wraps around pipe threads. I brought this out and said “Electrical”. Lo and behold! She brought out some black insulating tape. A waiting customer translated the price to 60 rupees which is Aus 50 cents. I did not haggle as that was about the price in Bunnings back home. The GPS lead is nearly as good as new.
The Elephant that missed the bus and a Safari on an empty stomach.
I woke at 4:30 am to get ready to go on my safari and was ready by 4:50 am. A packed breakfast was promised at 4:50 am and it had not arrived by 5:00 am so I went to the kitchen, I found no one. I had to leave.
Chamara, my guide, and the wildlife were waiting so off I went. We saw lots of birds in the park but no Elephants or Leopards. The National Park is divided into blocks. Block 1, where the leopards, live was closed as the park was dry and closing a block reduces the stress on the animals. We went to Block 5. There were many birds but no elephants. I was convinced they had taken a late holiday and caught a bus to the beach. It is not that far. Anyway, just after we left the park we saw an Elephant waiting by the side of the road. You can see him in the photo gallery. Now, I am convinced he was late and his friends had caught a bus and he was waiting for the next one. On the way, back to the hotel we saw another elephant with big beautiful tusks in the back of a truck. Chamara said he was probably going to a temple festival. I did not like to contradict him but I believe he had hired a truck to take him to the beach. (Only little elephants fit in the back of a tuk-tuk, his big beautiful tusks would have ripped the roof lining).
By the way, when I returned I negotiated a free lunch instead of breakfast so perhaps there is such a thing as a free lunch?
I love Sri Lankan buses
Contrary to all I have ever said in the past that has been disparaging about buses, today I love buses. My journey was from Tissa to Galle on the coast which was a 5-hour bus ride. I left the hotel at 9:05 am and waited on the road with 2 suitcases for a passing tuk-tuk. One arrived promptly and wanted 150 for a 50 fare. We agreed on 100. The ride was quick I told the driver I was going to Galle. He said there were no direct buses at this time of day. I should go to and change at Matara, 4 hours away. When we arrived at the bus station there was a Matara bus pulling out. He shouted at the driver to stop, my driver helped the conductor load my large case into the luggage compartment at the back of the bus. Needless to say, he got his 150 rupees. So, there I was at 9:15 am safely on my way to Matara in a luxury air-conditioned bus i.e. the windows opened. I paid for 2 seats as my cabin bag would have been uncomfortable on my lap for 4 hours. Just out of Tissa we stooped to pick up a lady who was paying for some fruit at a roadside stall. The bus driver waited while she paid, the stallholder loaded her bag of fruit on the bus, a man gave up the front seat for her and then we continued on. We stopped a couple of times on a dual carriageway so that the driver could lean out of the cab to chat over the centre grass median strip to a bus driver a truck driver going in the opposite direction. Nobody tooted they just drove around us on the inside lane. We arrived safely at Matara, I retrieved my case from the back after the conductor had forgotten it. I am glad they did not zoom off once the last passenger had alighted. (Alighted – a technical bus term for “Choofing off”). I had to wait 10 whole minutes for the Galle bus but it was only an hour’s ride so it was cheaper. The 2 seats on the 4-hour trip and one on the 1-hour ride plus tip for not Choofing off came to around Aus $4. I love Sri Lankan buses.
Tuk-Tuk drivers never change.
When I arrived in Galle from Tissa I was not in the mood to play silly fellows. I needed a tuk-tuk to take me and my suitcases the 1 km to the hotel.
The proper rate was 50 rupees for the journey. I have never known a trip of less than 100 so I thought that was what I would pay. The first driver asked 500! I laughed at him and walked away. The next was 250 I asked him why it was not 100. He said he would have to go the long way around because it was school time. He would not budge. The last one was an organiser, he asked me if I was Australian and would I change $2 in coins for rupees. I gave him an exchange rate which was favourable to me and not him. He accepted it. He also asked for 200 for the ride. I stuck to my 100. He came down to 150 and I said that was my last price. He gave in a called up a driver.
When we arrived at the hotel (without any school children long way diversions). He said 150 and I said we agreed 100. He said that was with his boss. I said he took the fare, then he wanted 130. I had had enough. I gave him 100 and walked away. He was muttering. How can he mutter when he has charged double the fare and I would not pay triple!
OK so I piked out!
Today I left Galle and caught the train to Colombo. It was a 2 and a quarter hour journey. The train had 2nd and 3rd class non-reserved carriages. I managed to get one of the last 2nd class seats. The journey was fine, the carriage was air-conditioned i.e. windows open. I had planned to catch a commuter 3rd class train for the last hour to a station near my overnight hotel ready for the light to London tomorrow. I waited on the platform at Colombo for 10 minutes while everybody got off the train and up the stairs and over the bridge. I had two heavy cases and needed a long time to huff and puff my way up and over. It was at this point that it hit me what if there was the same bridge arrangement at the other end. What if I could not get a seat on the commuter train and me and my suitcases were hanging out the door. It was at this point I piked!
I thought it would not hurt to see how much a tuk-tuk would cost. The first quote was for a taxi at 4,000 rupees. Next a tuk-tuk at 2,500, better but not there. At this point I counted the money in my wallet, 1780 rupees. That decided my limit. I could not face going to an ATM with my luggage, I would do that as a leisurely stroll from the hotel. Then a friendly fellow came along, he wanted 2,000. I said I wanted to pay 1,500 – I was low on money. We chatted for 15 minutes, he told me he would do the airport for 1,600 or my hotel, past the airport, for 1,900. In the end, I showed him my wallet and said last price 1,700. We chatted some more and then the clincher was that I said now we knew each other so well I thought we were friends. Friends help each other out and wouldn’t he take me for 1,700. He agreed. Once we were away from the traffic jams it was a lovely ride, past a canal and fish stalls. Country lanes and rice fields. The tuk-tuk was, of course, air-conditioned i.e. no windows except at the front. So, 90 minutes later we arrived at the hotel, shook hands and parted, I like to think, best friends.
As I entered the foyer of the Grandeeza, a very nice 4-star hotel, a young lady came up and said “Good evening, Mr Hunt”. Now I was puzzled at how she knew me then I wondered if I looked just a little bit Australian and she put two and two together. I took a self-portrait here, so what do you think. Is this an Aussie abroad?
The Latest Adventures
We now move to England…
You may remember in the introduction to this newsletter I said that I was going to England in response to a request from Jezza (Australian for Jeremy) to reglaze his glass house.
We spent a day in Welsh Wales to celebrate Shirl’s birthday (Jezza’s wife Shirley). Laura lives in Cardiff with her husband and when things go pop, her son/daughter. Laura is better known by the initials M.P.F short for Mrs. Posh Frock. When she visited Judy and I in Australia some years ago she announced that she had a Posh Frock when invited out. Sadly, I do not have a Posh Frock, Oh! Well!
I have to report that although we did make good progress we did not finish the reglaze of the glass house before it was time to leave for Provence. In my defence, I must say that I did help to replumb the water softener whose pipes were leaking. This was an emergency unplanned job which did take precedence over the glazing. Shirl allowed the trip to proceed on the strict understanding that the project was completed before I left for Australia. So, with our release permits duly signed we set off to fly to Marseilles and thence by car to Provence. The time spent in Provence has been good so far, we have even done stuff that did not involve eating!
More about that in due course.
Bye for now,
Bazza
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